CONTENTS - FILM LOCATIONS - WARTIME LOCATIONS - GRAND TOURING - EQUIPMENT - NEW MATERIAL - INDEX

Couture - DRAFT Wikipedia - Link -

     Haute Couture - The art of elevating a mortal woman into a goddess. Dress-making was as old as stitched clothing Wikipedia - , at least as old as the Iron Age, but it would not be until the 20th Century that most people would witness Haute Couture: Thanks to Motion Pictures. And by their means, the Greatest Century would also be made the greatest century of Haute Couture. The photographic image, whether as part of a motion picture in the cinema, or on the printed page in a monograph or high fashion magazine would allow the great works of the designers to be seen across the globe, to inspire and to be desired.

     While the main fashion houses Wikipedia - in London and Paris produced designs for women to purchase, motion pictures allowed a smaller number of designers to produce couture which would be seen across the world, even though in many instances, only one example of the dress would be made for the movie. The controlled context of the motion picture would allow the designers free rein to design daring costumes which would be difficult for a woman to carry off in anything but private circumstances.

 

 

+ HATS - HEADGEAR ;
- #
- -#

+ HAUTE COUTURE
- Haute Couture - Hollywood Motion Pictures#
- Haute Couture - Paris ; #

+ Haute Couture - Illustrators ;
- #
- -#

+ TAILORING
- Savile Row #
- - James Bond #
- - - James Bond by Ian Fleming #
- - - James Bond by EON Productions #
- - - Captain Crocker - Adolf Hitler #
- Overseas #

+ WINTER
- Furs #
- - Furs ; Zavidovo, the Politburo Dacha north-west of Moscow #
- Royal Navy #

 

 

 

 

+ HATS , HEADGEAR ;

 

Orson Welles and Oja Kodar, in 'F for Fake'
Orson Welles Wikipedia - and Oja Kodar Wikipedia - , in F for Fake (1974) Wikipedia - F for Fake 1974

 

 

 

- STETS0N

- - J. B. Stetson Wikipedia - J B Stetson Company Wikipedia - Stetson hat

- Hiltmore #

- - Winston Churchill's Stetson was a Hiltmore, presented to him by the city of Calgary #

- - Resistol Wikipedia - Resistol Stetson Hat Company Stetson hats

- - - #

- Hats for Skiing and Mountaineering.

 

 

 

 

+ FASHION HOUSES - HAUTE COUTURE

+ HOLLYWOOD DESIGNERS

- TREVILLA

- ADRIAN GREENBURG OF HOLLYWOOD

- - COUTURE: VIKKI DOUGAN

+ HAUTE COUTURIER

- COCO CHANEL

- BALENCIAGA

+LINGERIE

- CORSETIERE

-- Mr Pearl - Dita von Teese's corsetiere

London 1957. Norman Parkinson photographs mannequins on the South Bank of the Thames at Rotherhithe overlooking Tower Bridge and the Pool of London
London 1957. Norman Parkinson photographs mannequins on the South Bank of the Thames at Rotherhithe overlooking Tower Bridge and the Pool of London

 

Hotel de Paris and the Casino in 1957
1957: The divine Marlene Dietrich crosses the square from the Hôtel de Paris Wikipedia - Hôtel de Paris Wikipedia - Hôtel de Paris to the Casino, wearing a silver-white silk shroud dress by the consummate couturier Jean-Louis Scherrer Wikipedia - Jean Louis. It does not get better than this.

Jean Louis Scherrer, along with William Travilla Wikipedia - Travilla , Adrian of Hollywood Wikipedia - Adrian of Hollywood , Travis Banton Wikipedia - Travis Banton and Edith Head Wikipedia - Edith Head were the group of couturier who in the post-war decades took the mere mortal clay of women such as Marlene Dietrich Wikipedia - Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe Wikipedia - Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth Wikipedia - Rita Hayworth and re-cast them in divine form as Goddesses, thanks to brilliance in the art of Haut Couture. Men such as these achieve the equivalence of the great automotive designers: Giotto Bizzarrini Wikipedia - Giotto Bizzarrini, Giorgetto Giugiaro Wikipedia - Giorgetto Giugiaro and Leonardo Fioravanti Wikipedia - Leonardo Fioravanti, Marcello Gandini Wikipedia - Marcello Gandini, who clothe the mere skeletal structure of Engineering's products in aluminum couture.

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/International_Best_Dressed_List

Marlene Dietrich wearing her Swan's Down Coat
Marlene Dietrich wearing her Swan's Down Coat

Marlene Dietrich wearing her Swan's Down Coat

 

 

Illusrator René Gruau for Editions Désastre
Illusrator René Gruau Wikipedia - for Editions du Désastre

 

Illusrator René Gruau for Editions Désastre

 

+TAILORING

 

+ IAN FLEMING AND JAMES BOND

 

 

- Single Breasted Dinner-Jacket

- In Fleming's first James Bond novel Casino Royale (1953) page 47.9 (Pan edition) Fleming describes Bond using a 'light chamois leather holster and slipped it over his left shoulder so that it hung about three inches below his arm-pit':

With the thin vertical scar down his right cheek the general effect was faintly piratical. Not much of Hoagy Carmichael there, thought Bond, as he filled a flat, light gunmetal box with fifty of the Morland cigarettes with the triple gold band. Mathis had told him of the girl's comment.
He slipped the case into his hip pocket and snapped his oxidized Ronson Wikipedia - Ronson to see if it needed fuel. After pocketing the thin sheaf of ten-mille notes, he opened a drawer and took out a light chamois leather holster and slipped it over his left shoulder so that it hung about three inches below his arm-pit. He then took from under his shirts in another drawer a very flat .25 Beretta automatic with a skeleton grip, extracted the clip and the single round in the barrel and whipped the action to and fro several times, finally pulling the trigger on the empty chamber. He charged the weapon again, loaded it, put up the safety catch and dropped it into the shallow pouch of the shoulder-holster. He looked carefully round the room to see if anything had been forgotten and slipped his single-breasted dinner-jacket coat over his heavy silk evening shirt. He felt cool and comfortable. He verified in the mirror that there was absolutely no sign of the flat gun under his left arm, gave a final pull at his narrow tie and walked out of the door and locked it.

 

Dr No (1958)


   The Blue Hills was a comfortable old-fashioned hotel with modern trimmings. Bond was welcomed with deference because his reservation had been made by King's House. He was shown to a fine corner room with a balcony looking out over the distant sweep of Kingston harbour. Thankfully he" took off his London clothes, now moist with perspiration, and went into the glass-fronted shower and turned the cold water full on and stood under it for five minutes during which he washed his hair to remove the last dirt of big-city life. Then he pulled on a pair of Sea Island cotton shorts and, with sensual pleasure at the warm soft air on his nakedness, unpacked his things and rang for the waiter.

 

From Fleming's novel Dr No (1958):


   Bond ordered a double gin and tonic and one whole green lime. When the drink came he cut the lime in half, dropped the two squeezed halves into the long glass, almost filled the glass with ice cubes and then poured in the tonic. He took the drink out on to the balcony, and sat and looked out across the spectacular view. He thought how wonderful it was to be away from headquarters, and from London, and from hospitals, and to be here, at this moment, doing what he was doing and knowing, as all his senses told him, that he was on a good tough case again.
He sat for a while, luxuriously, letting the gin relax him. He ordered another and drank it down. It was seven-fifteen. He had arranged for Quarrel to pick him up at seven-thirty. They were going to have dinner together. Bond had asked Quarrel to suggest a place. After a moment of embarrassment, Quarrel had said that whenever he wanted to enjoy himself in Kingston he went to a waterfront nightspot called the Joy Boat. "Hit no great shakes, cap'n," he had said apologetically, "but da food an' drinks an" music is good and I got a good fren' dere. Him owns de joint. Dey calls him 'Pus-Feller' seein' how him once fought wit' a big hoctopus."
Bond smiled to himself at the way Quarrel, like most West Indians, added an 'h' where it wasn't needed and took it off when it was. He went into his room and dressed in his old dark blue tropical worsted suit, a sleeveless white cotton shirt and a black knitted tie, looked in the glass to see that the Walther didn't show under his armpit and went down and out to where the car was waiting.

 

Anthony Sinclair fits Sean Connery for a suit
Anthony Sinclair fits Sean Connery for a suit for Dr No (1962)

Sean Connery at a fitting

 

A label from an Anthony Sinclair suit
A label from an Anthony Sinclair suit.

 

+ Adolf Hitler

- Hitler purchased his White Tie formal dress for use at the Bayreuth festival from tailoring firm of Kun & Nupnau, München.

His black silk top hat, size 58, was made by Julius Thannhauser, München , at Rindermarkt 7.

- Hitler's Fedoras were probably made in Czechia, and were likely made from Beaver fur. The best Fedoras were manufactured there and the Soviets took over production after the capture of Czechia.

 

+ TAILORS - WORLDWIDE

 

- LONDON

-- Very difficult to give advice here. Wish I had sufficient experience with every tailor on Saville Row to give an opinion. Henry Poole tends to handle livery work. Anderson and Shepheard hold several Royal warrants. I like the cutters at Huntsman. My shirts are handled by Turnbull & Asser on Jermyn Street, which is where most of the shirtmakers are located.

- NEW YORK

- MUNICH

- MILANO

- BANGKOK

- - Siam Square: The best tailor in Bangkok is a Sikh tailor who has a shop in Siam Square. He is much closer to a Saville Row experience than the other tailor who are regular Indian Ocean rim tailors, and much cheaper.

- BOMBAY

- HONG KONG

- DUBAI

- BAHRAIN

- - AVOID Sangam tailors in the Souk, use the Navy Base tailor who also has a shop in the Souk. Finding anywhere in any of the Souks on the Arabian Gulf is not easy because they are labyrinths and use only POBox numbers. I think this is the Navy Base tailor in the Souk: Mustafa, POBox 2216, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain, V 390 950 85, F: 1721 1341 0993 053 566 but I could be wrong. In the window is a large photograph of an Navy officer who looks like General MacArthur, as well as other photographs of naval officers. This is a very small shop. Avoid Sangam tailors in the Souk as they act in poor faith, and show shoddy workmanship, such as button holes mis-aligned.

 

 

 

+ USING OVERSEAS TAILORS

- Purchase lengths of fancy ribbon, stripes, Paisley, cross-hatch. Take it with you in your luggage. When you are ordering a suite with several pairs of trousers, have the tailor sew-in a short-lenght of fancy ribbon to the trousers, different for each pair of trousers. This way you can identify which pair of trousers are presently in service or which pair are due to a visit to the dry-cleaners. If you have a large number of suites made from a similar cloth then you can sew in to both the jacket and the trousers the same piece of fancy ribbon, then ink-in with a laundry marker a number on the fancy ribbon on the trousers.

 

+ WINTER

 

Fidel Castro, wearing a large sheepskin coat, enjoys a winter hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev, in the Soviet Union, 1964
Fidel Castro, wearing a large sheepskin coat, enjoys a winter hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev, in the Soviet Union, 1964. It appears likely that this was at Zavidovo, a hunting preserve north-west of Moscow, maintained for use by the Politburo (the equivalent of Camp David). Kissinger was treated to a similar trip in May of 1973.

 

 

Castro in Soviet Union 1964

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
The sheepskin overcoat is too thick for Castro to mount the double gun correctly and he has to remove it in order to shoot at incoming birds

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
The endless forests of the Motherland

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
Kruschev and Castro enjoy a tot of spirits

 

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
Lunchtime at an outdoor table

 

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
Wearing over-whites

 

Winter 1964 Fidel Castro on a state visit to Soviet Union enjoys a hunting trip with Nikita Kruschev in thick snow.
They have added a fox to the game-bag

Years of Upheaval by Dr Henry Kissinger:


    The American party was housed in an East German-built villa resembling an oversized Swiss chalet blown out of scale by the heavy stolidity that in the Communist world denotes status. The exterior looked vaguely Alpine; the inside was all velvet-covered Victorian opulence. Some junior members of my party were housed in an old dormitorylike structure diagonally across a wide lawn The largest private residence in the compound belonged to Brezhnev. It was a two-story chalet built in the same style as my residence, though on an even grander scale. The ground floor contained a number of large reception rooms filled with heavily upholstered furniture, a dining room, and a movie theater. The upper floor had a large living room, a study, and a bedroom. Each upstairs room opened on a balcony shaded by an overhanging roof. At right angles to Brezhnev's villa and connected with it by passageways on each floor was a fully equipped gymnasium containing an Olympic-sized swimming pool. Brezhnev came to my residence soon after my arrival and greeted me boisterously. A little later he invited my colleagues and me to dinner at his villa, which he first showed off with all the pride of a self-made entrepreneur. He asked me how much such an establishment would cost in the United States. I guessed tactlessly and mistakenly at four hundred thousand dollars. Brezhnev's face fell. My associate Helmut Sonnenfeldt was psychologically more adept: Two million, he corrected - probably much closer to the truth. Brezhnev, vastly reassured, beamed and resumed his guided tour. He showed us with boyish pride a scrap-book of clippings and congratulatory telegrams from various Communist leaders on the occasion of his being awarded the Lenin Peace Prize. The near-absolute ruler of the Soviet Communist Party seemed to see nothing incongruous in boasting of an award from his own appointees and congratulations from those whose careers and political survival depended on him.


 

 

 

 

 

Cortina - Guests at the von Furstenburg Chalet, sporting a variety of fur coats
Cortina D'Amprezzo

Marilyn Monroe wearing a fur coat at a ski resort

 

Gunter Sachs in bobsled gear, on the Crest Run at St Moritz, wearing a fur coat
Gunter Sachs in bobsled gear, on the Crest Run at St Moritz, wearing a fur coat

 

- Fur : Link - Wild fur pelts http://www.macleans.ca/news/canada/were-shooting-polar-bears/

+ Furs in Film Link - Fur Glamor

 

 

 

1946 Field Marshall Montgomery in his campaign caravan wearing a Royal Navy dufflecoat
1946: Field Marshall Montgomery in his campaign caravan wearing a Royal Navy dufflecoat

Episode Four Greensleeves - Roger Moore wears a Royal Navy Duffle Coat
Lord Sinclair wears a Royal Navy wool duffle coat. These were Royal Navy issue right up to the 1960s. They were for use in the North Atlantic.

Dunkirk (1958) John Mills , Bernard Lee, wearing an Royal Navy dufflecoat
Dunkirk (1958) John Mills and Bernard Lee. Bernard Lee is wearing an Royal Navy dufflecoat.

 

 

 

+ BIBLIOGRAPHY

 

- . Dior - A Fashion Memoir

- by #AUTHOR#. , published by #PUBLISHER# , #YEAR#.
- #LOREM IPSUM DOLOR SIT AMET#

 

- . The French Ribbon

- by #AUTHOR#. , published by #PUBLISHER# , #YEAR#.
- #LOREM IPSUM DOLOR SIT AMET#

 

- . Luxury Passion

- by Caroline Cox. , published by Bloomsbury , #YEAR#.
- #LOREM IPSUM DOLOR SIT AMET#

 

- . The Killer Detail: Defining Moments in Fashion: Sartorial Icons from Cary Grant to Kate Moss

- by Franois Armanet and lisabeth Quin. , published by Flammarion , 2013, ISBN 978-2080201539
- #LOREM IPSUM DOLOR SIT AMET#

 

- . Hollywood Costume

- by Deborah Landis. , published by #PUBLISHER# , #YEAR#.
- The inside story on the design and construction of many iconic Hollywood costumes

 

- . Saville Row - The Master Tailors of British Bespoke

- by James Sherwood. , published by Thames and Hudson , 2010 , ISBN 9780500515242
- #LOREM IPSUM DOLOR SIT AMET#

 

- . The Perfect Gentleman

- by James Sherwood. , published by Thames & Hudson , #YEAR#.
- Superb guide to London's foremost brands.

 

- . Swan - The Legends of the Jet Society

- by Nick Foulkes. , published by www.assouline.com , ISBN 978-1614281283 .
- A superb work lavishly illustrated and diligently researched detailing the high society of the Jet Age from the 1950s to the 1980s

 

- . Panama

- by #AUTHOR#. , published by www.assouline.com , #YEAR#.
- Superb reference on the Panama hat, including the Montecristi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

+ SEE ALSO

- Jayne Mansfield in The Girl Can't Help It (1956)

- Marlene Dietrich

- Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953) ;

 

- Tailoring

- Luggage

 

+ EXTERNAL LINKS

+ The suits of James Bond Link - The Suits of James Bond

+ http://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/tags/suit Link -

- Saville Row - Changes -

+ http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/uk/london/9333705/London-the-tailors-of-Savile-Row.html

- Fox Flannel Link - www.foxflannel.com - makers of Flannel cloth

+ http://www.thebuttonqueen.co.uk/ - All manner of rare buttons including gilded blazer buttons.

 

- Suspenders/Braces: Albert Thurston Ltd, of Liecester, GB.

 

- Conduit Cut Blogspot Link - Conduit Cut Blogspot - The tailoring of Anthony Sinclair

- The Suits of James Bond Link - Suits of James Bond

- Link - The Button Queen The Button Queen - Marylebone Lane, London, England

- Millinery: Kezia Argue Millinery Link - Kezia Argue Millinery Link - Kezia Argue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Table of Contents Locations - Fiction Locations - World War II Locations - Rennsport - Motorsport Technical Subjects New Material Added Bibliography Karte - Maps Index and Links

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